Where can I get good ice cream in Budapest?

I used to consider ice cream as one of the best things in Hungary. Rich in flavor and yet very light, something that both cools you and quenches your thirst. Perhaps the only thing comparable to it was Italian gelato but at a much higher price. The last few years, however, brought great changes to the ice cream situation in Hungary.

Foreign brands started replacing the home made specialties of individual ice cream shops around the country. First, it was sort of exciting to try the rich and heavy textures of Carte d'Or and Movenpick. But once the initial effect of high-calorie euphoria was gone, we were left with some artificially flavored sweet butter.

Unfortunately, the foreign brands were not only bad and unhealthy but also efficient at spreading, which gradually lead to the disappearance of the traditional types of home-cooked ice creams. It used to be that you could find very good ice cream in small pubs (called Presszo or Expresszo), in tiny cafes and pastry shops. And all this for about HUF 5-10 a scoop.

Today I can think of only a few places in Budapest where you still can get good traditional Hungarian ice cream. One of the best ones in my opinion would be Jegbufe on Ferencziek tere, near the beginning of the Vaci Street flooded by tourists. Inside the shop there are two counters selling ice cream. The one on the far right sells Carte d'Or; the one towards the center of the establishment, good home made ice cream. Unfortunately, this home made delicacy is only available during the summer season.

Another good place is Karolyi Cafe on Muzeum krt., between the National Museum and Astoria. The ice cream here is perhaps closer to a sorbet, only not as sweet.`The best flavors would be blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, ch/colate, and coconut.

Yet another good place is on the Buda side, on Kosztolanyi Dezso ter. If you take bus #7 from the city and get off at Kosztolanyi, you will find yourself right in front of a small pastry shop that sells ice cream. Here again, there are two counters, one inside and one outside. No matter how long the line may be, go for the outside one. The best flavor would be Eszterhazy.

And let's not forget Gerbeaud Cafe, which sells its ice cream both in Vaci Street and in front of the Gerbeaud Cafe on Vorosmarty ter. They have been a big name for ages and they also make good ice cream. In terms of flavors, I prefer walnut and egg yolk vanilla. Gerbeaud's is probably the most expensive ice cream in Hungary, at HUF 210 per scoop but the scoops are nearly twice as large as elsewhere. Also, the cones are baked on the spot.